I have been cleaning out my closet this month. Little by little over the last three years I have honed my “collection” down to pieces that I actually wear and have eliminated quite a bit by using up some of my fast fashion ( read Target) clothing that just was never intended to last for years and years. Other more functional and necessary pieces have been handed down to children, passed on to charity or donated to the local chapter of DAV or Goodwill. It’s nice to have room and also not to be compelled to fill it up with “stuff.”
The article of clothing that I do add to my closet regularly is sweaters. Hand Knit sweaters that I design either make it into my regular rotation after being published, they go out on a “museum loan” to shops so that knitters can see them in real life. Some pieces join the ranks of my designated Trunk Show Samples. These pieces are available to loan to knit shops or groups.
I was reflecting back on what makes some pieces the ones that I wear and some pieces for display. First line of deciding whether a piece will be worn or shown is how many have been knit. I always have to have a good example to share at events. Most of the time it is whether or not the pieces has some sort of additional modification made. Here are some of my favorite low risk, high return sweater modifications:
Contrast cast on and bind off: It is just too easy to use a contrast color either from your stash or from the design of the sweater to make a little change to your collar, cuffs and hem. Keep in mind that changing color on a round with purl stitches will give you a little different accent from the two colors blending when the head of the purl stitch from the previous row leans forward in your work.
Stripes: Wides stripes, skinny stripes, alternating stripes or the old two stripe athletic sock treatment can dress up your favorite shape and give you a completely different feel.
Ribbing: 1×1, 2×2, 1×2, 3×2 – adding a right twist every few rows or ever a few YO, K2tog to a 3×2 rib can give you an interesting detail. A little math check to see what combination of stitches your desired area is devisable by will make all the difference and lead you to a safe and fun change. Adding twist will decrease elasticity in your fabric.
Don’t forget you can easily make 1×1 a broken rib ( k1, p1 on round one, K all on round 2) This is usually as stretchy and
Changing neck line: easily to raise a neckline. Cast on a smaller size to bring the neckline up from wider and jewel neck to a more standard crew. Some of my favorite colorwork sweaters end up with a neck line is too large purely based on the math needed to make the colorwork design develop cleanly. One of my biggest cheats is to cast on a smaller size, work several additional rows ( and inch or so in depth) and then increase. Another method is to cast on with a smaller needled, using a firmer method: long tail or cable cast on fight the shoulder slump really well. And one last tip is to work you neckline finishing last. Cast on the same amount, just skip any ribbing or neck treatment. Then once the garment is finished or before you add any button bands, go back and pick up the stitches and work your neck treatment or collar ribbing up. This gives you two more stable rows: the picked up stitches are now more firm because there is extra yarn used to pick up the stitches from the cast on and your bind off is very likely more firm than your cast on. If you have trouble here with bind offs. Consider using a smaller needle to bind off with, or bind off knitwise as apposed to in pattern.
Last for this installment, but certainly not least is the sweater reverse… not Chris Cross style… but truly inside out. Why not consider your next favorite sweater in reverse stockinette? It’s as easy as where you weave in those ends! In some cases a little planning ahead and some cool welts could give you a solid statement towards inside out garments. This is absolutely a time to apply your neck bands last as picking them up will give you a seam you want to show, or perhaps a seam you want to hind. Make those decisions carefully. It’s the difference between handmade/ bespoke and home-made.


